Sugga #443

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ENGINE FUEL PUMP

Fuel pump was serviced and bolted on.

I mounted a replaceable fuel filter before it and took out the original one. Car is now 1 kg less....:wacko:

Originally, there were two fuel pipes from the tank to carburettor - main and 'reserve' (fitted lower in tank, nearer to bottom). I had them replaced with new ones of course, but coupled the fuel pump to the 'reserve' pipe therefore it would pump from lower in tank. Fitted a T piece a bush having a 0.4 mm hole in it after the fuel pump and before the carb. Point is to work as return pipe avoiding pressure to build in the carb and eventual overflow.

This worked fine except for starting and stalling in one case.

On my vehicle the exchange heater situated under the manifold and carb is custom made (probably the original rusted away). It was build by previous owner and lacks the original sistem which directs hot air from exhaust under the carb when engine is cold and ('automatically') to exhaust when engine is hot. It looks like an unreliable sistem to me (although I never experienced using it) due to probable clogging of the axle in the side bronze bushes. Maybe if often serviced it would have worked, but I doubt it's reliability.

So I have one empty box under the carb.

Heats strong enough to avoid iceing in winter, but a bit too much in summer, evaporating fuel from the Rochester when car stops (engine off).

Next start will involve turning the engine to push fuel pump rod untill topping the carb. Not very nice.

Seccondly, I experienced stalling at one time. I was in the mountains, in summer on a forest road climb. At 1000 meters above sea level, petrol evaporates at 50-60 degrees C. On that hot day it's exactly what happened, and a 'vapour stopper' formed in the pipe (probably nearby it's nearest segment to exhaust). I had to stop the car on an incline and it did not fire back untill I took off the fuel pipe and blew air in it (fuel filler cap open) untill it pushed the vapour stopper out. Then I filled the carb with the lever on the fuel pump and it fired instantly.

Having experineced these I decided to replace the original part with an electric fuel pump.

A FACET (carb-for designed) pump was fitted and powered through the key. When I turn on the key fuel is pumped in the carb. Pushing the button will then fire the car. Instantly.

Even if the pump has its own filter, an easy replaceable one was installed.

A MALPASSI regulator was installed after the pump before the carb.

You'll notice in the pictures the seccond return pipe now not in use. I plan to install again the 0.4 mm hole T piece and reuse it just to make sure nothing will force the carb.

FACET fuel pump and MALPASSI regulator were purchased on EBAY UK.

I have a thought of rebuilding the original 'hot spot' sistem but manually activated from dash not by a spring and counterweight as original. What do you think ?

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ENGINE

CARBURETTOR

Overhaul kit from ALTYCO, but found available at several dealers.

Stripped and cleaned, new parts installed.

As you can see depicted, we tried to do our best to minimise 'false' air getting into the body through the axle holes. Fitted on one side a teflon bush and on the other side a brass bush with a cap (plain bottom).

I've heard pros and cons about Rochesters:

Pros:

- simple and reliable

- good performance in inclines (due probably to level chamber splitted in two on both sides - my guess )

- some say fuel economic - hmmm ;, really ?

Cons:

- not very adjustable (few calibrating options)

- it rapidly evaporates fuel when engine is stopped

- has a sort of delayed action when gas pedal pressed

I've found some had it replaced by a CARTER YF which seams a straight forward swap, which has only one con regarding possible stall on steep inclines.

Does anyone know more about that ?

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ENGINE REBUILT 1

I'll let the images do the talking, not before urging you to notice timing chain is labelled 'Made in USA'.

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ENGINE REBUILD 2

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ENGINE REBUILD 3

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ENGINE REBUILD 4

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ENGINE REBUILD 5

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ENGINE REBUILD 6

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ENGINE REBUILD 7

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BODY

Meanwhile, at the body shop...

Chassis was send to body shop and work started with body on it. In the same time we were working on the engine.

Remember axles were already overhauled ?

Floor had to be replaced, same with doors panels and over-the-wheels arch metal sheet.

Trunk edge was to be reconstructed.

Check it out: