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hi costin

the mounting frame lives under the radio table and looks like this and i am looking for 2 of these if you know anyone selling some?

My intention is to put the table back in the car. I've no ideea if these frames will look good on it or not. No radiows will be fitted (at least this is what I think now). If decide to sell those, I'll let you know...

ENGINE

Engine rod bearings.

This is how we ended up solving the unobtainable engine rod bearings. Remaking them.

From new, larger diameter and thicker ones - from a Saviem truck.

A aluminum cylinder had to be machined of the size of what the cranckshaft will be. Bearings were forced to fit in each half of the rod, then cut the excess length.

Finally they were mounted inside the rod with the cylinder and bended again by tightening the two half sides of the rod.

Cranckshaft had to be machined to exactly the same dimension for tight fit.

Although I was skeptical about the result, the mechanic told me this was usual once in the days. It seams to be working.

The old school mechanic is priceless !!!

ENGINE

Valves and valve seats.

Both were remachined to factory specifications.

ENGINE



Piston rings



These were also impossible to find.

We had to order (ALTYCO and an old seller from UK) oversize - 0.20 (repair step one). Remember cylinders were impossible to find oversize. Well, rings were impossible to find not oversize !!!

Fitting oversize rings is to be done by grinding their edges to get a certain dimension of the gap. Mounted and checked with light underneath. If no light passes, we're good to go.



One ring (the fire ring if I remember well) was purchased from an old seller in UK who told me it was from a Bedford truck.

If you were wondering where from 84.14 mm comes from (cylinder diameter), there you have the answer on the Pedrick rings package - 3 5/16 inch.

You´re doing a good Job!
Thank you for the documentation.

ENGINE

WATER PUMP

Another difficult piece. Although it looks simple, it was a paint in the *** to rebuild.

First, as I said before, it was rebuild at one time using another impeller, I believe from a LandRover. Very poor rebuild - the impeller was way much smaller, probably not pushing enough water through the engine and not cooling it.

I ordered an original part from ALTYCO, but they only had one pcs 'used but good'. Well, that's what we get, that's what we have to use...

But when mounting it, it broke (remember it has to be tight fit on the shaft). Old cast iron gets very breakable !

So we had to send the broken part to the turner and he made a new one from aluminum. Not only it will not rust, but it's much lighter too, therefore less momentum.

We ordered him a new shaft as well.

New bearing was installed. New water seal (ALTYCO).

Have a look at first picture - we made the impeller slightly larger compared to original for a tighter fit to casing wall.

Done.

Use of the vehicle showed water pump is good, cooling the engine to 80 - 84 degrees max in hottest summer.

Some leaks in first 800-1000 km by the water seal. Mechanic told it will leak untill the new surface on which the water seal presses will get smooth enough to seal the water. It's exactly what happened. Now - no leaks !

ENGINE

IGNITION

I decided to switch to electronic ignition and replace the breaker points for more reliability and accuracy. Although the Sugga engine is low rev, the whole sistem gives trouble free usage.

- it's maintenance free

- accurate

- more powerfull spark (combined with modern coil)

- fits into original distributer

Kit was purchased from here: http://www.hot-spark.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'm using the original spark plugs - AC Delco 45 purchased from here: http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

New spark plug leads were installed too.

In usage this upgrade prooved very reliable offerig a good start even at -12 C (coldest I tried).

Set up was done using stroboscopic light.

Pictures show distributer with braker poins and electronic ignition plus some details with codes for rotor and distributer. Also some measurements I made of the shaft.

Some detailed cleaning was necessary on the distributer.

I have only one concern regarding proper functioning of the ignition - I'm not sure the shaft conterweights springs are still calibrated corectly. They are the original ones. Sistem was cleaned for easy of movement, but I guess springs should be a little bit 'tired' after 50+ years.

Anyway, car runs perfect (to what I can tell) and spark plugs are light grey as they should.

ENGINE

IGNITION

ENGINE

IGNITION